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First a trivia question. What do they call the food in the capital of Korea? Answer at the bottom.

Once upon a time, long, long ago I went to Korea. But my first journey was filled with apprehension. Why, you ask? Well, long before that, I was a Chaplain's Assistant stationed in a church in Germany (back when there were TWO Germanies . Well, to get on with the story, a young soldier was caught 'messing around with' a high ranking officer's daughter. In order to punish him and separate the lovers, he was reassigned to Korea. So, needless to say, my first visit to Korea was filled with thoughts of 'this is where they send over sexed soldiers as punishment'.

Well, courtesy of my rich Uncle (Uncle Sam¹, or more specifically the US Navy) I finally made it to Korea in the early 1980's. I am happy to report my first impressions of this little penisula of a country were fantastic. Prices were cheap, the people were friendly, and when I couldn't handle the extremely spicy food there were American style restaurants to visit. I left my Navy days with good memories of Korea. In fact, I came away saying "I lost my heart in Seoul."

But, that feeling didn't last. Upon my return years later, my saying had changed to, well, I promised to keep this P.G.², so let's just say Korea changed, and much for the worse! Prices went up, the friendly people died or moved away, and the food was still too spicy!

Anyway, there are several major places most tourist seem to hit, and I will cover them in more detail in an updated version. For now, Seoul is a big city - like most others. It has its good points, its bad points, and its points of interest. Places I have been and recommend, not in any particular order, include the following (names for now, details in a future update):

• Itaewon: shopping, bargaining, and lots of cheap little American fast food places.

• Also in Itaewon: I forgot the name of the place, but it is an American sytle bar/restaurant, on the other side of the street from the Hamilton Hotel, and it is mostly in the basement. In one room they have darts, in another they have pool, and down stairs in the big room at the back, when the video finishes, you can help choose the next video and just sit and drink beer all day and all night. They also have some pretty decent food! Worth looking for.

• Also near Itaewon: Chalet Swiss: a nice place, if a little hard to find. I walked up the road past where I figured it should be, so I asked for directions at the police box. They said, 'Next door'. So it is a ways up the road, and just around the corner from the Police Box.

• Chungmuro subway station! Yes, subway station!

• Tongdaemun (East big gate) and Namdaemun (South big gate) Markets. A little different from the 'westernized' shopping areas, interesting and often cheap. Note: not many foreigners here!

• As far as hotels, I once stayed at the Seoul Plaza. It's nice if you can afford it. I have more recently stayed at the Savoy. It used to be a recommended spot, but on my last visit they tried the old room and price shuffle trick and lost my business and recommendation. One night, on the recommendation of a friend I stayed at the YMCA. Friendly people, and OK if you don't mind the dreary decorating, the bed bugs, etc.

• T.G.I. Friday's (the one near the Sadang subway station). Interesting story on that, next time!

• Kyongbokkung Palace.

• Chang Dokkung Palace.

• Toksugung Palace.

• Namsan Park / Tower - but skip the fried fish!

• Two attractions in the Olympic Park area include Lotte World and the Early Packche Tombs. The former is a mini Disneyland-type attraction (it is not affiliated with the REAL Disneyland!), and nice if you have the kids along for the day. As far as the tombs are concerned... I don't know if they fixed them up since I was there, but walking by the entrance it seems more like the entrace to a garbage dump than a national historical treasure. Not for the kids, but more for the history and culture buffs.

The other town I have spent most of my time in is Pusan (Busan, what's the difference?), and I regret to say I have not fully explore the area. A few places I recommend:

• Pusan Tower

• Texas Street. Note: When I first went there in my Navy days, the 'second language' on the street was English. Today, nobody seems to speak English there any more! The new second language? Da, tovarisch, Russki yazik!

• Haeundae Beach area.

So, next time, when I fill in the gaps, I will also mention places like Inchon, Pohang, and Taejon.

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¹ - for you non-native speakers that is the US Governement

² for non-Americans, P.G. is an old fashioned movie rating system which means generally OK for children, but parental guidance suggested.

Seoul Food (for non-native speakers and Native speakers without a sense of humor it is a play on words based on a popular Black American food speciality, Soul Food).